Next you will need to trim down the excess PTFE tube. If the PTFE tube is looking bent, melted, burnt, or damaged in any way, it is a good idea to use a fresh piece.ġ1. Make sure it goes in the same orientation as the V6 and press it all the way in. Now take out the collet clip from the Revo Six and slide in the PTFE tube you just took from the old V6. Remove the collect clip from the V6, press down on the collet and slide the PTFE tube out.ġ0. If it has partially disassembled in transit, or if you have taken it apart yourself, check out this guide for how to assemble it.ĩ. Start by removing the fan and shroud from your Revo Six, you won't be needing it on your Prusa. Try not to cut the wires as you may want to reuse your old Heater/Thermistor at some point.Ĩ. This will give you more room to install your Revo Six. At this point it also helps to cut the cable ties holding the thermistor and heater on the back of the extruder. If the wires are too tight to remove it, you may have to take out your thermistor and/or heater cartridge from the heaterblock first.ħ. If you pull the motor out further, make sure you do not leave it hanging by the wires. Pull the Motor just far enough out so that you can dislodge your V6. Make sure you support the motor as you remove the screws at the back, to avoid straining the wires and/or dropping itĦ. Remove the two screws closest to the top of the extruder and carefully take off the cover. Turn your Prusa around, so that you can access the back of the extruder.ĥ. We still need access to the groove mount to remove it though. You should now have the Sink, Heatbreak, Heaterblock, and Nozzle exposed. Carefully remove the front face of the extruder. The one alongside the fan arm can be a little awkward to reach. Remove two M3 x 40mm screws from the front of the extruder body. The lower M3 x 20mm screw also holds the fan shroud in place so be sure to remove this too.Ĥ. The top M3 x 14mm and the lower M3 x 20mm. Next, remove the two screws on the right side of the heatsink fan. Leaving the fan dangling can damage the wires.ģ. Make sure you do not stress the fan wires, they are very fragile. Tuck the fan between the belt and the rod on the X-axis. You should still be able to follow this guide in the same way, although some illustrations may vary from what you have in front of you.Ģ. You may find you have the early MK3 style upright fan on your extruder. Remove the two M3 x 20mm screws holding the part cooling fan in place. All MK3 Prusa Printers are 24V as standard.Ĭheck out our Blog if you are unsure on whether you need a 12 or 24V Revo Six:ġ. You should also place a cloth or piece of fabric over your heatbed to give it some protection in case you drop something onto it.ĭouble-check your printer before buying 12V or 24V. You should also ensure there is no filament loaded and that the printer is unplugged from the power source. Please move your extruder to roughly the centre of your bed and around 100mm above the build plate before starting this upgrade, this will give you easier access to the extruder. If you have an MK2/2.5 you can still follow this guide but you may want to refer to the Prusa documentation for extruder disassembly as some aspects will vary. Please note, your printer may vary from the one illustrated in this guide, depending on the model and your own upgrade choices. You should read through the whole guide before attempting the upgrade to ensure you understand exactly what is required to complete it successfully. You will also need Revo Six or Revo Six MK3 Edition. This is a complete upgrade guide suitable for an original Prusa MK3, MK3S, and MK3S+. Prusa released a new firmware 10/01/23 that has the potential to cause temperature issues with the Revo Six, Please refrain from upgrading for the time being until we can verify stability.įor the time being, firmware 3.11.0 is the last known stable firmware for use with Revo HotEnds.īefore upgrading your Prusa i3 with Revo Six please read the following safety cautions.
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